Eating our way around the Lizard Peninsular
Head for Lizard Point, Britain’s most southerly spot, famous for its dramatic cliff walks, wild flowers and stunning views. Here the landscape is rugged with cliffs forged by violent winter storms and the relentless pounding of Atlantic swells.
First stop is Lizard village. Another day, another pasty (for lunch, later); and this time the famous Ann’s Pasties (annspasties.co.uk). You can’t miss the shop – it’s brightly painted in saffron yellow. Ann’s are ‘ansom (as they say here) and made using cornish grass-fed beef and potatoes from Lizard, Manaccan and Helford, and a special pate brisee approach to pastry making.
Head down towards the point where you can visit the 1751 lighthouse or the old lifeboat station perched by a tiny cove at the foot of the cliffs. Then head west along the coastal path for Keynance cove three miles away. You may see guillemots, seals, dolphins or basking sharks. But a real treat is to spot a Cornish Chough. These beautiful and playful members of the crow family are close to the hearts of Cornish folk and appear on the counties coat of arms. Once common, numbers dwindled in the 20th century, the last sighting being in 1973. Following years of careful land management and failed attempts at reintroduction, a pair simply turned up again in 2001. Now choughs have once more become a regular sight here. Find out more at www.cornishchoughs.org
Kynance Cove may well be the most painted and snapped place in Cornwall, with its brilliant turquoise water, white sands, and rocky islands. The Kynance Cafe is possibly the most memorable place in the world for a cream tea or crab sandwich.
Great dinner options are the New Yard Restaurant, on the Trelowarren Estate which was described by Du Maurier as ‘a jewel in the palm of your hand’. With one of the finest wine lists this side of France and a menu to match it’s a real foodie dream. For a bit of fun, catch one of their speakeasy nights for fresh pizza, cocktails and some swingin’ jazz. Close by at Mawgan is The Ship Inn and Old Courthouse Restaurant. Here, fresh, local and seasonal are second nature, and the knockout Trip Advisor reviews say it all. Or head to Porthleven and seek out Kota one of the best-kept secrets in the South West. Awarded Bib Gourmand in the Michelin Guide 2013, expect a Cornish-meets-pan-asian menu and enticing wine list — see the mouthwatering sea trout entreé below. Next door is the simpler Kota Kai, their family-friendly arm, where kids eat free (5.30-6.30). They’ve even got a skittle alley!
If you get up late and need a cracking late breakfast head for the Croust House Kitchen at Roskilly‘s. Still a family run dairy with their own organic herd of Jersey cows, and famous for their delicious ice cream. Visit the farm for a stroll round the meadows or take a trail to learn a little more about what they do. Head up to Helston and find The Blue Anchor. It’s one of the oldest original inns in Britain and continues to brew its legendary ‘spingo’ on the premises. Expect no slot machines, but occasional outbursts of singing.